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Cook Islands
Rarotonga's bus timetable has two entries: clockwise and anticlockwise.
One road circles Rarotonga in 32 kilometres, and the public bus runs it in both directions — the timetable lists clockwise and anticlockwise, and that is the whole network. It is a fair summary of the scale: fifteen islands, about 15,000 people, scattered across roughly two million square kilometres of ocean.
The country is self-governing in free association with New Zealand, uses the New Zealand dollar and mints its own coins alongside it. Aitutaki, forty-five minutes north by air, has a triangular lagoon far larger than the island in it. Cook Islands Māori is spoken with English, and Sunday singing in the village churches is worth arranging a week around.
Quick facts
Currency
NZD
New Zealand dollar
Language
English
Power
—
Driving
Left
UK-style
Airport
RAR
Rarotonga International
Emergency
—
Police · Fire
When to go
Monthly breakdown
Storm risk: ModerateJan
Rain
Feb
Rain
Mar
Rain
Apr
Rain
May
Best
Jun
Best
Jul
Best
Aug
Best
Sep
Best
Oct
Best
Nov
Rain
Dec
Rain
Major events
Gospel Day
Marks the arrival of Christianity in 1823, observed with nuku, staged biblical dramas performed by village church groups.
Te Maeva Nui
A week of island-by-island dance and song competition marking self-government in 1965, with each island bringing its own delegation to Rarotonga.
Vaka Eiva
A week of outrigger canoe racing in Rarotonga's lagoon and open ocean, drawing crews from New Zealand, Australia and Hawaii.
Hidden gems
Te Rua Manga
The Needle, a rock spire in the middle of Rarotonga. The cross-island track passes its base and continues down to Wigmore's Waterfall, about four hours coast to coast.
One Foot Island
A motu on Aitutaki's lagoon with a one-room post office that stamps passports. Boats stop here on lagoon cruises, and the sandbar off its edge is the shot everyone comes for.
Anatakitaki Cave
A cave on Atiu home to the kopeka, a swiftlet that navigates the dark by clicking, one of very few birds that echolocate. Guides take you in by torchlight through a limestone forest.
Local food
Ika mata
Raw fish in lime and coconut cream, the Cook Islands version of a dish the whole Pacific makes under different names.
Rukau
dietary_tags.veganYoung taro leaves cooked long enough to lose their bite, then finished with coconut cream and onion.
Umukai
The earth-oven feast, still cooked for Sunday and for celebrations, with pork, chicken, taro and rukau lifted out together.
Safety tips
Water-Safety
The reef passages on Rarotonga carry water out of the lagoon fast and are marked with warning signs. Swim in the Muri and Titikaveka sections, not near the gaps.
Transport
Rarotonga's single ring road has one bus running clockwise and one anticlockwise, and scooters need a local licence test if you have no motorcycle endorsement.
Cultural-Etiquette
Sunday is widely observed and many shops, activities and some restaurants close. Buy what you need on Saturday and plan the day around a church service or the beach.
Sustainability
Eco rating
Reef: HealthyPlan Your Trip
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