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New Caledonia
Its barrier reef encloses a lagoon of 24,000 square kilometres, UNESCO-listed since 2008.
The reef around Grande Terre is one of the longest continuous barrier reefs on Earth. It encloses a lagoon of roughly 24,000 square kilometres, listed by UNESCO in 2008, and the water inside it is shallow and calm enough that the island's whole coastline behaves like a sheltered sea.
On land the isolation shows. Isolation has done its work here: about three-quarters of its plant species grow nowhere else, including columnar araucaria pines that look drawn rather than grown. The kagu, a grey flightless bird with a bark like a dog, exists only here. The soil that produced this flora is also full of nickel, and the mines that follow it are a large part of the territory's economy.
Quick facts
Currency
XPF
CFP franc
Language
French
Power
—
Driving
Right
US-style
Airport
NOU
GEA
Emergency
—
Police · Fire
When to go
Monthly breakdown
Storm risk: ModerateJan
Rain
Feb
Rain
Mar
Rain
Apr
—
May
Best
Jun
Best
Jul
Best
Aug
Best
Sep
Best
Oct
Best
Nov
Best
Dec
Rain
Major events
Fete de l'Igname
The yam festival opens the Kanak year, with the first harvest presented to the clan chief. Ceremonies happen across the tribes and visitors attend by invitation.
Marathon International de Noumea
A road marathon along the Anse Vata and Baie des Citrons seafront, run in the cooler part of the southern winter.
Foire de Bourail
The country's largest agricultural fair, with rodeo, livestock judging and a Miss Bourail contest. It reflects the Caldoche settler ranching culture of the west coast.
Hidden gems
Coeur de Voh
A heart-shaped clearing in the mangroves on the west coast of Grande Terre, made famous by an aerial photograph. On the ground you climb the hill behind Voh to see the shape.
Baie d'Upi
A bay on the Isle of Pines crossed by traditional outrigger pirogue, weaving between coral pinnacles that stick straight out of the shallows. The trip ends at a walk to the natural pool.
Piscine Naturelle d'Oro
A lagoon on the Isle of Pines cut off from the sea by a coral barrier, so it holds warm clear water and reef fish with almost no current. Reached on a 20-minute walk through pine forest.
Local food
Bougna
Yam, taro, sweet potato and meat or fish wrapped in banana leaf with coconut milk and cooked on hot stones; the Kanak dish for guests.
Cerf
Rusa deer, introduced in the 1870s and now so numerous it is culled; the meat appears as steak, terrine and stew.
Crevette bleue
A blue-shelled prawn farmed in the lagoon and exported to France; usually grilled simply so the shell colour shows.
Safety tips
Nature
Sea snakes are common on the beaches and in the shallows of the Isle of Pines. They are highly venomous but very reluctant to bite, and the rule is simply not to touch them.
Water-Safety
The lagoon is a UNESCO site and the reefs are protected, but the currents at the passes are strong. Follow the operator's briefing on where the drift takes you.
Transport
Cyclone season runs from November to April and the outer islands lose their air and boat links first. Build slack into any trip to Lifou, Ouvea or the Isle of Pines.
Sustainability
Eco rating
Reef: ProtectedLagoon UNESCO-listed since 2008
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